Book Log 2007 #52: The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman

In this follow-up to The Making of a Chef, Ruhlman sets out to figure out what it is that makes great food. The first section looks at the 10 day Certified Master Chef exam at the CIA, an ordeal whose low pass rate and focus on traditional cuisine makes it virtually meaningless to many in the trade.

From the objective and technical, we then move to a more passionate and creative quest for perfection in a leading modern American restaurant. And while the food here is excellent, there's a lack of tradition and technique that Ruhlman finds a little discomforting.

The two parts find synthesis in the last part, which details the French Laundry and its chef, Thomas Keller. It's not only a great profile of a top chef and an incredibly inventive dining experience, but it demonstrates the link between the chef, the physical act of cooking, and an interest in and love for the actual ingredients.

At this point I'm just going to recommend the entire trilogy of books, though I'll save The Reach of a Chef for its own entry.